ICELAND

Three stops, one day. Þingvellir National Park sits on the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates — you can see the gap with your eyes. Geysir erupts every few minutes with reliable theatricality. Gullfoss is a double-tiered waterfall that produces its own weather. Rent a car in Reykjavík and do all three in sequence. Return before dark — the roads outside the city are not lit.

Seljalandsfoss lets you walk behind the waterfall — bring waterproof gear or accept that you will be completely wet. Skógafoss drops 60 meters and has a staircase to the top that takes 15 minutes to climb and produces views that justify every step. Reynisfjara black sand beach is one of the most photographed locations in Iceland and one of the most dangerous — the sneaker waves have killed tourists. Stay behind the safety markers.

The Aurora Borealis is visible from Iceland between September and March when skies are clear and solar activity is sufficient. The Aurora forecast is published daily at en.vedur.is — check it every evening. Drive away from Reykjavík into the darkness; even 30 minutes outside the city produces dramatically better viewing conditions. The lights are unpredictable. They may appear for five minutes or two hours. They cannot be demanded, only waited for.

The world's northernmost capital has 130,000 people and the density of cultural activity of a city three times its size. Hallgrímskirkja church dominates the skyline. The Harpa concert hall is the finest piece of contemporary architecture in the country. The Old Harbour area has the best restaurants and the fish soup at Sægreifinn is the correct lunch. Walk everywhere — the city is small enough that a car is unnecessary.